Waddington Range Trip Report 2009

Alpinist  Newswire Trip Report
If you are interested I've posted our trip report from Alpinist.

An experienced Canadian team added a significant new route to British Columbia’s Coast Range this summer.

At the end of August, Canadians Joshua Lavigne, Craig McGee, Scott Everett and Carlyle Norman flew into the range and set up base camp on the Sunny Knob outcrop located on the south side of the upper Tiedemann Glacier. As a warm up, they climbed Skywalk Buttress (ED1 5.9, 600m) then split into two teams. Lavigne and McGee were successful on a new route, Defiance (ED2: 5.12 A3, 1450m) a total of 28 pitches with lots of simul-climbing on the relatively popular South Side Mt. Combatant (3756 meters) via the Incisor. Meanwhile, Everett and Norman had planned a 1500-meter traverse from the Gnat’s Tooth to Serra One, but retreated when warm temperatures caused significant rockfall on the upper mixed pitches.

Mt. Combatant has routes on all its major buttresses and is one of the area’s gems, said Alpinist correspondent Don Serl: “It may be the finest of the peaks in the Waddington Range.”

Lavigne and McGee began climbing on August 28. That day they completed the first seven pitches of the Incisor, sharing some terrain with the route Belligerence and finding “steep, technical climbing,” Lavigne said, “including multiple 5.11 pitches that were loose and runout, and a crux pitch of intricate, thin crack climbing.” They fixed their two ropes that afternoon and left their gear at the base of the wall. 

Two days later (we did the reci climb on the 28th, rested on the 29th and then started climbing again on the 30th)they returned and continued free climbing—save for one 20-meter section of A3, the route’s only aid—to just below the summit of Incisor, 15 pitches up. The next day, September 1, they found eight pitches of rock along the Jawbone that was “loose and dangerous and at times completely terrifying,” Lavigne said. This took them to the base of Toothless Tower, where they found excellent rock that led them to the summit of Combatant

Sources: Joshua Lavigne, Don Serl

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